Tales from Israel, Part 2.

I'm not trying to be dramatic, but THIS WAS THE BEST BREAKFAST I HAVE EVER HAD IN MY ENTIRE LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Roladin Bakery in the Mamilla shopping area

Shaksuka, which has also since become a staple of my vegetarian cooking. 

This little halva cake was so incredibly delicious that we couldn't even stop eating it to take a good picture.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was an interesting experience. The Church contains the official sites of where Jesus was crucified and buried, although this is disputed by some. I'm not a follower of organized religion, but I respect and am always intrigued by the powerful ancient traditions and culture that surrounds them. I believe in Jesus as an enlightened being, much like Buddha and many other great teachers that illuminated the path to unconditional love, trust, and peace. So being able to see these dynamic historical and spiritual sites first-hand made me feel so incredibly lucky and humbled.

However...the Church of the Holy Sepulchre hardly seems like a place that honors the life of Jesus. It's dark and eerie. The priests seemed to hate people and were constantly yelling. You kind of have to sympathize with them though because the tourists in that church are so desperate to kiss the dirt where Jesus was crucified and get their blessing that it runs frighteningly close to mob mentality. I was shoved, hit in the face, and pushed enough times to wonder if some of these people ever actually read anything about Jesus.

This is the Stone of Anointing, where the Church says Jesus' body was prepared for burial. People kiss, cry, and rub articles over it that they want to be blessed. 

The candle I lit here for my mom on her birthday.

A creepy secret room we stumbled upon while trying to escape the yelling and pushing.

Thousands of engravings on the walls done by Roman soldiers.

The site where Jesus was crucified, according to the Church.

A closer look.

I found it to be a strange contrast to other Holy sites. When we visited Muslim and Jewish Holy areas, everyone was silent. The rules to visit were definitely more strict, but they were clearly posted before entering the area. No one yelled. No one pushed. No one was desperate. 

Meanwhile...on the other side of Jerusalem...there is a place called the Garden Tomb. Some Christians believe this is the real site of the crucifixion and burial.

The garden is beaauuuttiful! And peaceful! And the people are friendly!

The uncovered tomb.

Inside the tomb

People think this might be the real site for various reasons, including this rock shaped like a skull which was referenced in the Bible...

...so if that's true, it puts the real site of the crucifixion here---at this bus stop in the Muslim quarter. 

And so the mystery remains. We personally enjoyed the garden a LOT more than the sad old church. 

The Dome of the Rock is a major Holy site for Islam, Jewish and Christian traditions. It is currently maintained by a Ministry in Jordan, and until recently, it was off limits to non-Muslims, though all three religions have historical ties to the area. We passed through security, which included ensuring we were free of any religious symbols or artifacts. 

Richard's shorts were a no-go, so he had to buy a scarf/skirt.

Inside the Dome (which we are not allowed access to) lies the Foundation Stone. According to Judaism, this Stone is the junction between Heaven and Earth, considered to be the place from which Earth was created. It is their most Holy Site. Muslims believe it is the site where Muhammad ascended to Heaven to speak with God. Christians venerate the site due to it's role in Jesus' life. 

Men and women are separated into groups to pray.

For our first night in Jerusalem, we slept in a really crappy hotel on the top of Mt. of Olives...but the second night won the honor of being my First Ever Hostel stay...and it was awesome!!! I would definitely go back for a longer period--they have organized tours, cool people, games at the bar, cooking classes...the night we stayed was trivia night. I thought we had a one-up because trivia was in English and there weren't many other native speakers there...but we got our butts kicked by some Germans. Those Germans never stop winning, do they!?

The hostel was in walking distance from this great secret market for the locals. Richard and Val were in heaven. I guess you could compare their blissful ecstasy while walking through the aisles to how I might feel when shopping for new clothes with free money. Frenchies really love good food!

We hung out all night in the hostel, talking to people, playing games, and drinking Israeli beer. Then we called it a night, because the next morning we were leaving Jerusalem quite early...

........................ and I guess there will be a Part 3!